{photo credit: Derek Bridges}
In New Orleans, neighborhoods like the Lower Ninth Ward and Tremé, music is part of everyday life. That’s where Kermit Ruffins grew up, learning his craft in a city where jazz is woven deep into the culture.
Ruffins first picked up the trumpet in eighth grade at Lawless Junior High School and developed his skills through the high school marching band at Joseph S. Clark High School in Tremé. By 1983, at age 18, he co-founded the Rebirth Brass Band alongside tuba player Philip Frazier and other childhood friends. Rebirth didn’t treat brass band music like a relic; they propelled it forward, blending traditional second-line rhythms with funk, soul, and hip-hop influences, sparking the modern brass band revival. They took their sound to the streets, clubs, and parades, keeping the music alive and accessible to the people.
In the early 1990s, Ruffins decided to branch out from Rebirth and formed the Barbecue Swingers—a name that nods to his signature style of cooking. He is legendary for firing up the grill between sets, serving barbecue to fans right from the stage. But one of his culinary favorites is his red beans and rice, a New Orleans staple he elevates with smoked neck bones, sausage, and pickled meats. He’s known to simmer massive pots, often 10 pounds or more, of creamy, flavorful red beans, dishing them out to the crowd during shows. This has been a communal ritual that turns performances into feasts, embodying the city’s tradition of sharing meals amid the music.
When the HBO series Treme premiered in 2010, created by David Simon and Eric Overmyer, Ruffins appeared as himself. The show spotlighted post-Katrina New Orleans through its musicians and culture keepers, and Kermit Ruffins wasn’t acting; he was simply being himself, holding down residencies at spots like Vaughan’s Lounge, grilling for friends, and rallying for his city.
In 2014, after purchasing and renovating the historic Mother-in-Law Lounge on North Claiborne—a landmark originally opened by icon Ernie K-Doe in 1994—Ruffins revived it as Kermit’s Treme Mother-in-Law Lounge. He transformed into a lively neighborhood spot for music, red beans, and good times.
In 2025, Ruffins shared that he planned to step back from running the lounge. He still owns it and performs on stage, but he’s passing on the daily management responsibilities to focus on music, cooking, and enjoying the venue. Ruffins continues to represent the city through his music and his presence. For him, the bandstand, the neighborhood, and a pot of red beans are all about belonging together.
Today, whether he’s playing his trumpet at the Mother-In-Law Lounge, making a pot of red beans, barbecueing for the crowd, or leading a second line through the streets, Kermit Ruffins remains a living embodiment of New Orleans music and culture. He’s not just preserving tradition, he’s living it, sharing it, and inviting everyone to join the party.
All aboard!
What’s your earliest memory of eating red beans and rice? Who made it, and what made it special?
My late mother, Esther Ruffins, in that Lower Ninth Ward. I learned that she used to add a tiny bit of brown roux to the beans. She would cook red beans on a Monday, of course. It was always so good with a side of cornbread.
Did those early plates shape how you cook it today?
Yes indeed, I took some of her ideas and added my own ideas. Now, I believe I cook some of the most delicious beans in the city!! Hundreds of people visit The Mother-In-Law during my gigs and enjoy a nice bowl. I usually cook about twelve big pounds total, especially around Jazz Fest.
Are your red beans at the shows any different from the beans you make at home?
Nope, I usually cook my beans exactly the same way each and every time.
Ten pounds of smoked neck bones, five pounds of smoked sausage, two bags of frozen holy trinity, five pounds of pickle tips, five pounds of pigtails, Tony Chachere’s seasoning, a little granulated garlic, and onion. Everything in the pot at one time, nice and slow for about five hours. The fan favorite!
If you could sit down to a bowl of red beans and rice with anyone, who would it be, and why?
Louis Armstrong! From what I’ve read, red beans were one of his favorite meals. I also read that he signed all of his letters home, closing at the end “Red Beans and Ricely Yours, Louis Armstrong.”
How do you think the tradition of red beans and rice reflects the culture and community of New Orleans—especially in the way food and music blend together?
Good question, red beans on a Monday are a big part of the culture of New Orleans. Many years ago, red beans would be cooked on a slow simmer while people would clean around the house or handle other business. It’s one of those meals that can be left on for hours, so that’s a nice benefit of it. Food and music are also a big part of the culture of the city. A pot of red beans can bring people together, just like music. It’s comfort, culture, and connection all in one. In New Orleans, even the smallest thing as a pot of red beans, can hold a history of meaning.
What’s your favorite part of sharing a big pot of red beans and rice with family, friends, or with fans at a show?
Sharing the love of cooking for others has always been so exciting in my upbringing. I can remember being a kid, how heartwarming and loving it is to have family members over, enjoying bowls of red beans. Now, I’m sharing it with everyone. The fans are like family to me.
What does red beans and rice mean to you personally?
Family, tradition, culture, New Orleans.
Where’s your favorite spot in New Orleans?
The Mother-In-Law Lounge, in which I’m there right about 4:20 PM hanging out before my weekend shows.
Outside of red beans and rice, what’s your go-to comfort meal?
Gumbo hits just like red beans. A part of the culture of New Orleans.
For someone outside New Orleans who loves your music, what’s the best way they can support you?
I host a radio show every Friday in San Diego, California. KSDS San Diego – Jazz Across America. 7:00 PM Central, 5:00 PM Pacific. Tune in! You can listen online or, if you’re in San Diego, turn that radio dial to 88.3FM.
To stay up to date with the latest information on Kermit Ruffins, follow him online:
- website: https://www.kermitslounge.com/
- Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ruffinsbbq
- Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kermitruffinsnola/
Kermit’s Treme Mother-in-Law Lounge is located at 1500 N. Claiborne Ave in New Orleans.
Eric Olsson is the food blogger of RedBeansAndEric.com. He publishes new recipes and interviews weekly. He has developed recipes and written articles for the famous Camellia brand in New Orleans, Louisiana. He has been mentioned in Louisiana Cookin‘ magazine and has had recipes featured in Taste of Home magazine – with his Creole Turkey recipe being runner up in their annual Thanksgiving recipe contest. He lives outside of Detroit, Michigan, with his wife and four children.
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