Chef Gus Martin grew up in New Orleans’ 9th Ward in a shotgun house next door to his grandparents. And like so many kids in Louisiana, he spent as much time as he could in the kitchen watching his mother and grandmother prepare their favorite Creole and Cajun dishes. He wasn’t afraid to explore the flavors or help out when he could – even during the big family events.
This passion for cooking led him, as a teen, to get a job at Commander’s Palace. He started out bussing tables but was moved into the kitchen where he worked under the legendary Chef Paul Prudhomme. This experience at Commander’s Palace set the strong foundation for what would become a successful culinary career in New Orleans.
(PHOTO CREDIT: Riverview Photography)
After high school, Martin joined the Army for six years. After he retired from the military and spent a brief time as a cook on an oil rig in the Gulf of Mexico, he returned home to be closer to his family. He took the position as sous chef at Mr. B’s Bistro and spent ten years there before returning to Commander’s Palace, where he was sous chef under the acclaimed executive chef Jamie Shannon.
There’s no doubt that you’ve probably eaten some of Chef Gus Martin’s food. He has worked at some of the most popular and iconic restaurants in New Orleans: Commander’s Palace, Mr. B’s Bistro, Palace Café, Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse, Ralph’s on the Park, Muriel’s Jackson Square, Tableau, and Tujague’s Restaurant.
While working in these kitchens, he was mentored by some of the greats in the New Orleans culinary industry: Miss Ella Brennan taught him about the business. Chef Paul Prudhomme taught him a lot about cooking and how to turn country dishes into fine dining cuisine. Chef Jimmy Smith was a wealth of knowledge and showed him everything there was to know about Creole and Cajun cooking.
In an interview with New Orleans Living magazine in 2009, Martin says that Chef Gerard Maras, while at Mr. B’s Bistro, showed him the classical French techniques, Chef Jamie Shannon showed him how to have fun with food, and Dickie Brennan helped him become an authority on food.
Throughout his illustrious career, Martin has learned the importance of what it takes to mentor the younger cooks as they enter the kitchen. Now he focuses on building that foundation for the new generation as they dream of becoming successful chefs.
“It is truly gratifying to see other cooks realize their dream of becoming a chef and knowing that I had a part in their development,” Martin said in the New Orleans Living magazine interview.
What do red beans and rice mean to you?
Family. Red beans and rice is a Monday tradition in NOLA that dates back for generations.
What do you think is the cultural importance of red beans and rice to New Orleans?
Beans were a cheaper way to feed a bigger family. Beans were a reasonable price back in the day and rice would be the filler for it that complemented well.
What personal experiences or memories do you have with red beans?
I love following the tradition of cooking red beans and rice on Mondays with smoked sausage or ham. Cooking your beans with a little pickled pork and the trinity. I actually like to cook beans on Sunday and serve on a Monday. They seem to be better to me the next day.
As I grew in the culinary field I started experimenting. I did a red bean sauce with a pickled pork hash cake and eggs on top. I made red bean salad with charred tomato bread. Paneed duck breast or pork chop with red beans on the bottom.
Traditionally, you have to have cornbread with red beans and rice. I like honey-glazed cornbread. It’s so universal and you can do so many things with it.
Are there any specific traditions in your family for red beans and rice?
In my family, you had to be home by 5 or you didn’t eat. We ate as a family. Some weeks it’d be pork chop with red beans and rice or chicken with red beans and rice. The ritual is having a great bowl of beans with family and talking about the day together.
Who do you think makes the best red beans and rice?
Anybody in their own house. Everybody does a great job with their red beans. To me, red beans are done at home. Those are the best beans to me.
When did you learn to make red beans and who taught you?
I learned from my grandma when I was about 7. I would stay in the kitchen and watch her cook. I remember standing on a milk crate and making scrambled eggs with her when I was two.
What’s your process for cooking red beans and rice?
My process is soaking my beans the day before. I pickle the pork separately because it’s really salty. I cube it up and put it to the side. I also like putting in slices of smoked sausage. I load the beans in a pot and throw in the trinity and bay leaf, thyme, garlic, and creole seasoning. Then I bring it to a boil. Once it comes to a boil then I drop in my sausage and cut it down to a medium heat and let it heat.
At the end, I like to add a spoonful of bacon fat and butter. They cream my beans. The pickled pork goes in at the very end because if you put it early it falls apart.
I like to serve my beans with Louisiana popcorn rice. I know some prefer long-grain white rice, which is good too, but I prefer popcorn rice.
Where is your favorite spot in New Orleans?
There are a lot of smaller restaurants in the city that do a great job. Kenner Seafood does a great job.
What is your favorite comfort food – your go-to meal?
I like a lot of things. It depends on the season. Football season I’m heavy into grilling. I love seafood.
Where is Tujague’s Restaurant?
Tujague’s Restaurant is located at 429 Decatur Street in New Orleans’s French Quarter.
{photo from TujaguesRestaurant.com}
They have been in operation for over 165 years making it the city’s second oldest restaurant. Tujague’s is also the birthplace of brunch.
For more information on Tujague’s Restaurant, the history, cookbook, and current menu, please visit their website at: https://tujaguesrestaurant.com/.
Be sure to stop by and say hello to Chef Gus Martin.
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Eric Olsson is the food blogger of RedBeansAndEric.com. He publishes new recipes and interviews weekly. He has developed recipes and written articles for the famous Camellia brand in New Orleans, Louisiana. He has been mentioned in Louisiana Cookin‘ magazine and has had recipes featured in Taste of Home magazine – with his Creole Turkey recipe being runner up in their annual Thanksgiving recipe contest. He lives outside of Detroit, Michigan, with his wife and four children.
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